Traditional St Martin recipe
St Martin day is celebrated all around Hungary with goose dishes like goose neck soup, goose cracklings, roasted goose leg, goose liver. For dessert goose would be rather strange, thus usually a special cake is served – called goose-foot cake, probably due to its triangle shape which reminds us of the footprint of a goose. The most important ingredients of the traditional cake are the chocolate and the sour cherry, so to make a great cake, use good quality chocolate. Here is a classic recipe.
- For the dough mix 5 egg yolks with 5 tablespoon sugar (use a food processor), then add four tablespoon flour previously mixed with 2 tablespoon cocoa powder and a little spoon of baking powder. Beat the egg whites and fold the hard foam gently together with the yolk dough. Smooth the dough into a baking tray covered with baking paper and place it in a preheated oven (175 C). Bake for 10–15 minutes then leave it to chill.
- For the cream mix 0,25 l milk with 3 tablespoon flour, cook it slowly until it gets thick, then leave it to chill. Mix 0,15 kg butter with 0,1 kg castor sugar and 30 gramms cocoa powder. Mix it with the chilled milk cream. Soak 0,15 kg sour cherry compot into rum for an hour, then dry the cherries and mix them into the cream. Add 50 ml sour cherry juice and 5 gramms vanilin sugar. Spread the cream over the cool, baked dough.
- For the chocolate cover melt 100 gramms dark chocolate (minimum 60% cocoa content) with 100 gramms butter over steam, and when this mixture is luke warm, spread it over the cream. Put it in the fridge for overnight. Cut the cake with knife immersed in hot water, cut rectangles, then halve them to make the typical rectangles.
(The recipe is from Nosalty by Petra.)
What to drink with it?
This cake must be a tough task for sommeliers – complex, rich, sweet and thank to the dark chocolate and cocoa content it’s bitter at the same time, and of course a little bit sour due to the sour cherries. One thing is sure: the wine must be complex as well. We asked a group of sommeliers and winelovers, and here is what we have got:
– Péter Blazsovszky head sommelier of Babel restaurant suggested an LBV Port, and most followers agreed with him (for example Réka Létai, my ex-colleague and Ákos Cristescu), though Cream Sherry, Madeira, Rasteau and Banyuls were mentioned as well by Zoltán Sánta wine expert and others. Helga Bulyovszki Konczné wine bar owner and wine festival organizer recommended Hetényi Winery János Áldás (’John’s Blessing’), a port style fortified wine made of Kékfrankos and Merlot from Szekszárd.
– The word Shiraz appeared several times, too, for example by Zoltán Lesti sommelier, who suggested Peter Lehmann Black Queen sparkling shiraz, and Szabolcs Bihari winelover joined with Lindeman’s Bin 50 Shiraz. Primitivo Manduria from Puglia seems to be a good choice, suggested by Zsolt Opavszky wine store manager. Bracquetto d’Aqui was another Italian red dropped in by Péter Kovács. Shiraz from Hungary was a popular choice again, Zoltán Balogh from Somlói Apátság Winery suggested Kreinbacher Shiraz from Somló – absolutely great idea, but hard to find! Bock Shiraz was also mentioned by Ferenc Szabó translator and wine expert.
– As for other Hungarian wines Kadarka was the most mentioned, started by Elizabeth Gabay MW, who suggests a Kadarka or Bikavér from Szekszárd, St Andrea Kadarka was recommended by Zsuzsanna Gyimesi gastro expert, and a Balla Géza Kadarissima again suggested by Blazsovszky. My husband joined the topic too, he would match the cake with a Gróf Buttler Kadarka Superior – a complex, unique Kadarka.
– Gábor Rohály wine school professor and wine writer is also for dry red wines – but only in case of malolactic fermentation. Zoltán Waller head sommelier of Tigris restaurant mentions Takler Primarius, a top Merlot, Egri Menoir (Medoc Noir) was suggested by Borbála Dula, daughter of Bence Dula winemaker from Eger, and Pál Kovács wineshop owner is also for a complex, late harvest red wine: his favourite is from Tóth Ferenc Winery, Eger.
– Some comments suggested white wine, though they represented a minority. Levente Ruck wine writer recommended a sweet muscat from South Balaton, Pócz winery, Judit Garamvári from Garamvári Winery (also South Balaton) is for a nice sparkling wine with a little dosage, and dry Furmint was also mentioned (Espák Furmint suggested by Eszter Puch and any Furmint according to Gyula Kertész). Well, I would love to try it myself, I will start with a matured, complex Furmint, namely Béres Naparany!
– Of course some experts refused to pair this chocolate cake with wine, as Alexandrosz Takács sommelier says „chocolate entangles tannins”, thus he is for a dark ale, namely Sugar Daddy by Mad Scientist and Tuff Buzz. István Vásárhely beer expert is obviously on the beer side, too, he would drink a AleSmith Speedway Stout. Ádám Gábor is a winery owner, still he would drink a capuccino with the cake (and listen to The Rosenberg Trio). Mihály Lippay is also for port, but as he says, a wine made of sour cherries might be interesting as well, for example from Mokos, Villány. Dénes Holló would love a sour cherry liquor by Agárdi Distillery – we might agree with this choice as well.